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                  | MADRASToday half the world is familiar with 
                      South Indian food -- paper dosas, idlis, 
                      medu wadas, pappadams. Or so they believe. 
                      A trip to Madras will change that notion entirely. Madras 
                      is the place to sample the real delights of South Indian 
                      food that most have not set eyes on. It is the city where 
                      one can go on a real eating holiday and never miss having 
                      not seen a church or a temple. The umpteen types of dosas. 
                      The trillion types of pulaos. The crunchy raitas. 
                      Spicy preparations of unheard of vegetables. And the meat 
                      cusine -- prawn drumstick curries, the mutton biryanis.
 
    
                       Budget
                        Amravati, Cathedral Road: Excellent, inexpensive 
                          food in the Andhra tradition. The biryanis are 
                          worth the eating. 
Imperial, 6, Gandhi Irwin Road, opposite 
                          Egmore railway station: North Indian food, and steaks. 
                          Rather run to seed of late, but still worth a checkout 
                          if you are in the area.
Maharaja, 307, Triplicane High Road: Popular 
                          with the budget traveller. North Indian dishes a speciality 
                          of the house. Better value for money is the set meal. 
                          Open till midnight, which in early-to-bed Madras counts 
                          for something.
Karaikudi, near Music Academy: Spicy south 
                          Indian food in the Chettinad tradition. 
Palmgrove, 5, Kodambakkam High Road, tel 
                          # 8271881: Two vegetarian restaurants in one. Oorvasi 
                          specialises in tandoor dishes, Menaka serves 
                          up great lunch-platters (thalis, in local parlance).
Saravana Bhavan, 77, Usman Road, T Nagar, 
                          near Mambalam railway station: Very popular for authentic 
                          south Indian vegetarian food. The ground floor is inexpensive, 
                          and serves up the food on plantain leaves, the first 
                          floor extension is more upmarket but very affordable. 
                          Tip: the food comes out of a common kitchen, so your 
                          choice is between affordability and comfort.
Woodlands Drive-In, 30, Cathedral Road: Vegetarian 
                          snacks, in a garden setting. Patronised by the mobile 
                          - and we mean bikes and scooters - teen crowd, though 
                          there is a table section for walk-in diners as well.
Woodlands, Cathedral Road: The home of traditional 
                          South Indian vegetarian fare inclusive of the famous 
                          sappad replete with sambar, rasam, applams 
                          and payasam.
AVM Dasa, Mount Road: This restaurant, run 
                          jointly by a movie mogul (AVM Studio) and a famous hotelier 
                          (Dasaprakash), offers authentic dosa, sambar 
                          and chutney to the discerning along with a host 
                          of continental vegetarian fare and an assortment of 
                          salads.
                        
                       Upmarket
                        Taj Connemara, Binny Road, tel # 860123: 
                          Superb buffet at the Verandah coffee shop, stiffish 
                          price. A catchall menu features vegetarian and non-vegetarian, 
                          continental and Indian. The Rain Tree restaurant, 
                          an outdoorsy place, specialises in the highly spiced 
                          Chettinad cuisine and is recommended for non-vegetarian 
                          food. Live classical music performances and Bharat Natyam 
                          recitals add to the ambience.
Ambassador Pallava, 53, Montieth Road, near 
                          Egmore: The Other Room features north Indian 
                          cuisine with a live band in attendance, and a dance 
                          floor for the fiddle-footed. The buffet, at a shade 
                          under Rs 200, recommended value for money.
Taj Coromandel, 17, Nungambakkam High Road, 
                          tel # 8272827: Mysore restaurant recommended 
                          for connoisseurs of Indian cuisine. Golden Dragon 
                          for some almost-authentic Chinese cuisine. The 
                          Patio for its continental food. The Pavilion 
                          coffee shop for its buffet breakfast. 
Welcomgroup Chola Sheraton, 10, Cathedral 
                          Road, tel # 8280101: The Peshawari restaurant 
                          serves food from the North Western Frontier Province, 
                          and costs a bomb. The rooftop Sagari restaurant 
                          caters to Chinese-food freaks, and is good and expensive. 
                          
Welcomgroup Park Sheraton, 132, TTK Road, 
                          tel # 452525: The Residency is great for Indian, 
                          Western and Chinese food. The Khyber is for 
                          the non-veg foodie, and the poolside barbecue is worth 
                          the stiffish tab. 
                        Dakshin is the best of the 
                        restaurants, and offers great, unusual veg and non-veg 
                        dishes to the accompaniment of live Carnatic music.
Trident Hotel, 1/24 Grand Southern Trunk 
                          Road, tel # 2344747: Worth the 20-minute drive from 
                          the city centre, if only for some toothsome Thai food. 
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